Here’s the last route I did through the Yucatan Peninsula. In 12 days, traveling by rental car, we managed to visit 3 Magical Villages, stunning beaches, Mayan ruins, swim in a cenote, and much more.
A lot of people ask me for advice on planning the perfect trip to the Riviera Maya and Yucatan. Honestly, the region has so much to offer for so many different types of travelers that I can’t define one single “perfect” trip. That said, I think my last route through Yucatan was complete and well-rounded enough to work as inspiration for just about anyone heading to the area.
The essentials of Yucatan
To set the scene: the Yucatan Peninsula is the landmass that separates the Gulf of Mexico from the Caribbean Sea, and on the Mexican side it covers the states of Yucatan, Quintana Roo, and Campeche. The region is defined by its Mayan past, an enormous range of tourist options, stunning beaches, and charming towns.
I won’t name specific places here, but these are the things every Yucatan trip should include:
- Exploring Mayan ruins
- Swimming in a cenote
- Visiting a Magical Village
- Spending time on a Caribbean beach
- Staying at a great hotel (doesn’t have to be expensive)
- Having a fresh Jamaican water with some tacos
My route through the Yucatan Peninsula
It was my mom’s first time in the area, so for this trip we wanted to cover a bit of everything: culture, fun, relaxation, and food. Even though we spent some days in fairly touristy spots, we tried to avoid the most crowded places and, most importantly, gave ourselves enough time at each stop so we weren’t rushing.
We did the whole route in a rental car for maximum freedom. There were three of us — my sister, my mom, and me — and we prioritized authentic experiences over the obvious tourist traps, though we did a bit of everything.
Day 1: Chetumal – Bacalar
We started at Chetumal airport, in the south of the peninsula, so our route would head north. We picked up a rental car right at the airport, with the option to return it at Merida airport. It’s a pricier option, but it saved us from having to backtrack to Chetumal at the end.
We flew into Chetumal because it was the cheapest flight from Mexico City, but you could just as easily start from Merida or Cancun airport.
The drive from Chetumal to Bacalar took about 45 minutes. First thing we did was check into the hotel and drop off our bags. We chose a villa for three at Bluebayou Bacalar, a small family-run hotel with direct access to the Bacalar lagoon.
There wasn’t much time before sunset, so we jumped in the lagoon, took some photos, and got ready for dinner. We headed into the town of Bacalar, where we found a lively atmosphere — terraces full of people, live music, etc.
Day 2: Bacalar
We made the most of the morning by grabbing the hotel’s free kayaks and paddling out on the lagoon, making it as far as Birds Island. The water is completely flat, so it’s easy to navigate even if you’ve never been in a kayak before.
Around midday, we headed into the Bacalar Magical Village to look for lunch and explore a bit. We visited the Fuerte de San Felipe, walked around the main square, and browsed the souvenir shops.
In the afternoon we had a motorboat tour of the lagoon booked, which took us to all the highlights. After the tour, we wound down the day relaxing on the hotel’s small dock — reading in the hammocks, taking the occasional dip. For dinner we went back into town for the atmosphere and some mojitos with live music.
Day 3: Bacalar – Tulum
On day three we enjoyed the lagoon one last time before getting in the car for Tulum, just over two and a half hours away.
I don’t remember the exact name of the apartment we rented in Tulum, but if you don’t need to be right on the beach, you can find great options at very reasonable prices. The accommodation scene in Tulum is so large that you don’t have to look too hard.
We got in late and were tired, so we kept it simple: grabbed some groceries, hung out by the apartment pool, and made dinner at home.
Day 4: Tulum
We got up early to visit the Maya ruins of Tulum. We followed that up with a boat tour to see the ruins from the sea and snorkel with manta rays. After the early wake-up, the heat, and all that activity, we wanted something low-key for the rest of the afternoon, so we went to a beach club. We had a good meal, a couple of beers, and enjoyed the relaxed music while taking the odd dip. The beach club we picked was Cinco Tulum, which is right next to the ruins. It’s a great option, though there are plenty of other good ones nearby.
Back at the hotel, we got cleaned up and headed out to enjoy Tulum’s nightlife, which has something for everyone — from chilled rooftop bars to full-on nightclubs.
Day 5: Tulum
For our second day in Tulum, we wanted to get away from the crowds, so we decided to spend the day at the Tulum Natural Reserve — a long stretch of coastline near the hotel zone that’s stayed fairly wild. There are a couple of simple beach clubs there where you can grab a bite while basically having the beach to yourself. That part was great, though the area was a bit rundown and not super clean. We also hit sargassum season, which took some of the shine off.
In the evening we had tickets to Cirque du Soleil’s Joyá show, which is one of the best entertainment experiences you can have anywhere in the Riviera Maya.
Day 6: Tulum – Valladolid
We left Tulum behind and made our way to Valladolid for a completely different kind of travel experience. In just an hour and a half, we went from the hustle of Tulum to a Magical Village full of history and culture.
The best thing you can do in Valladolid is simply wander its streets and soak it all in. It’s a calm town, with friendly people and a rich revolutionary history. We hung out in the main square as the afternoon wound down, mixing with locals, browsing craft shops, and stopping at a couple of restaurants. When night fell, we walked the iconic Calzada de los Frailes to the Convent of San Bernardino de Siena, where a light show projected onto the façade tells the story of the town.
Since we knew we’d spend the whole day exploring and would be leaving early the next morning, we kept accommodation simple — a no-frills, affordable hotel. A comfortable bed, a clean room, and air conditioning. That’s all you need.
Day 7: Valladolid – El Cuyo
Day seven was one of the fullest days of the trip, which meant an early start. First stop: the Maya ruins of Chichén Itzá, about 45 minutes from Valladolid. We wanted to be there right when the gates opened to beat the crowds. It was worth it — we had the whole complex almost to ourselves, and the temperature was still manageable. By the time the tour buses started rolling in and the heat kicked up, we were already wrapping up. We grabbed a couple of souvenirs and hit the road.
Next came one of the most anticipated moments of the trip: swimming in a cenote. There are tons of cenotes around Valladolid, some very well-known, but we wanted something more authentic and less crowded. That’s why we went with Cenote Palomitas. It was a great call — we basically had it to ourselves. It’s an almost completely enclosed cenote, with just a narrow opening letting light in from above. It’s hard to put into words what it feels like to swim there: you descend a few steps into what feels like a massive cave, and then you find yourself at the edge of a huge underground lake with crystal-clear water. Absolutely worth it.
We left the cenote refreshed and set off for a two-and-a-half-hour drive to our next stop, El Cuyo. It ended up taking three hours after we found a fallen tree blocking the road. It was annoying, but also kind of a fun experience — working with locals to clear the trunk off the road. We arrived just in time to shower, grab dinner, and take a quick stroll around the village.
Days 8 and 9: El Cuyo
We knew we wanted a couple of beach days on this trip — somewhere time slows down and you can spend the whole day barefoot in your swimsuit. We figured Isla Mujeres and Holbox would be too crowded, so we decided to escape the masses and head to El Cuyo. We also knew we were in sargassum season, and El Cuyo doesn’t get affected by it.
El Cuyo is a small fishing village inside the Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve. What makes it special is that it’s flanked to the north by the Gulf of Mexico and to the south by the Lagartos River estuary, which is home to flamingos and all kinds of wildlife. It’s a very quiet place with a small selection of eco-minded accommodation options.
We stayed at Casa Mate, a small beachfront hotel where the sand literally reaches the cabin doors. The days went by between beach walks, lounging, and plenty of swims in the beautiful water. As the sun went down, we’d wander into the village and hang out with the locals, who have a strong tradition of gathering and socializing in the evenings.
Fair warning: this place is paradise, but it’s not for everyone. If you’re after nightlife, big hotels, or lots of activities, this isn’t your spot. But if you value peace, simple living, and an authentic experience, you’ll love it.
Day 10: El Cuyo – Merida
Time to get back in the car for the final leg of the trip: Merida. With three and a half hours of driving ahead, we decided to make a lunch stop along the way.
We stopped at Izamal Magical Village, known for its all-yellow buildings and for being built on top of Mayan ruins — so it’s not unusual to spot the remains of pyramids and other structures right next to people’s homes. We walked around the town, visited the Convent of San Antonio de Padua, and had an amazing lunch at Kinich, one of the best restaurants in town.
Full and rested, we got back on the road to Merida, arriving as the sun went down.
Merida is the capital of Yucatan state — a large, vibrant city with a lot going on. That evening we wandered around the city center, taking in the squares, soaking up the local life, and eating marquesitas. After dinner, we made our way to one of the city’s most popular spots: La Negrita, a live music bar that’s always packed with people dancing.
Day 11: Merida
We had the whole day to explore Merida, but the moment we stepped outside, we realized the heat was brutal and long walks weren’t going to be an option. So we took it slow, alternating visits to the main landmarks with stops for cold drinks. Between fresh juices and beers, we visited the Plaza Grande, San Ildefonso´s Cathedral, the Casa de los Montejo, and wandered through the colonial neighborhood.
In the afternoon we rested at the hotel and then got ready for another visit to La Negrita — this time arriving earlier, since it closes fairly early in the evening.
Day 12: Merida – Mexico City
Time to say goodbye to our Yucatán adventure. On the last day we only had time for a quick walk around Merida to pick up a few last souvenirs before heading to the airport. We dropped off the rental car and boarded our flight back to Mexico City.
In just 12 days we crossed the Yucatan Peninsula from south to north: 3 Magical Villages, 2 sets of Mayan ruins, the vast Bacalar lagoon, a cenote swim, paradisiacal beaches, and an unforgettable show. A trip that genuinely had something for everyone.
If you’re planning a trip to the area and you like doing things your own way, I’d strongly suggest renting a car and exploring the Yucatan Peninsula at your own pace. It has a lot to offer, and with the info in this post plus other travel blogs, you can put together a trip that fits you perfectly — one you won’t forget anytime soon.
